Wednesday, August 27, 2008

school me

I often find myself in the midst of the boys' club...when it comes to the line up.

So when I paddled out Tuesday morning I figured it would be another same ol' same ol' session with all the usual suspects.

Four men....and me. (not that I'm complaining....mind you)

All the niceties ensued...."Hey how's it going..." "Good morning" ....and the ubiquitous nod.

And then it began....advice being thrown at me from all sides.

Normally....I will smile & nod. (in one ear...out the other)

Tuesday's teachers though.....required attention.

How often do you get a two hour seminar from 3 very good surfers and.... a legend.

A South African, two Half Moon Bay boys and.... Mr. Pipeline.

I consider myself lucky....not everyone gets this kind of education.

I listened.

I tried to remember (& execute) everything they were telling me.

I was on the twinfin (one day board). Should've taken out the genius....but I wanted more practice with the new shorty.

I was slow to my feet. And... having ridden Sonja the day before....kept stepping off the back or not widening my stance enough.

I kept at it though.

And then....

Bearhunter said "go"...

I spun & went...

Backside...pig-dogging it into a barrel....only to stand up too soon & get taken out by the lip.

Sir Lancelot watching (& hooting) on his paddle back out.

May not be legit by most standards....

I think I got an A for effort.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

getting wet

V-man & I are on vacation....last week of summer before school starts.
The small summer waves (and a steady hand) lured him out to the line up...

Out of the kiddy pool & into the pacific pond...

A solid set to finish off the session...

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Monday, August 25, 2008

good sam

random kook: (paddling toward me...) Hey girl!

me: (watching the incoming set & thinking wtf?...I haven't been called "girl" for close to 25 years)

random kook: Hey girl! ....I'm not supposed to be out here. I have seizures....and I'm supposed to wait another month...but I couldn't wait that if you see me face down in the water could you make sure I make it to shore?

me: (looking directly at Mr. Kook) I'm off duty. No lifesaving for me this week. (turn....catch wave)

random kook: (dumbstruck look on face = priceless)

*for those of you that don't my former life I was a lifeguard/swim instructor....and I've had my fair share of mouth-to-mouth/cpr/saving-some-idiot's-ass. That training is ingrained in me. Any time I'm in the water....the eyes in the back of my head are very much aware of who's around me & what's going. I can't escape it. So....Mr. I'm going to go against my doctor's orders & not only put myself at risk but put everyone else around me at risk as well....eff off. I'm no longer licensed to save your ass. Oh....and on the off chance that "that" was your pick up line? ....get better material.

Friday, August 22, 2008

Friday, August 15, 2008


Four miles.

Four waves.

Streak broken.

Thursday, August 07, 2008

red me

Ever been asked that question?

The one that generally stumps you...

"Who would play you in the movies?" give it serious thought...

Anyone? I can pick anyone...?

Without hesitation...

...I have one answer...

Marlene Dietrich


I don't know.

She looks nothing like me.

I certainly don't have her glamour.

Maybe it's the dress...

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Wednesday, August 06, 2008

surf olio

The cuteboy & I surfed this spot a few times during our latest trip south. This particular day I (we...once his royal highness got done with the crossword) scored a couple morning hours of waist to shoulder high lefts (& occasional right) on the new-to-the-quiver Hydro-Hull. Lovely responsive board. Easy to paddle and takes to walking. Then spent the next hour trying my hand at paddling the Mandala in preparation for the Hemorrhoid.
By noon the wind was on it...bringing the kite runners with it...

Sunday, August 03, 2008

my little swimmer....

The V-man had a swim meet this past weekend.
Two points shy of high point for 8 & under...
He swam great!