revival

Surfed a new spot today. Checked it many times over the years....but it's never quite enticing enough to actually hit it. Not to mention....it's one of those spots. You know the type....gives you the willies...while standing on land.

Today though....got a call from ding that said it was reeling...consistently. Loaded up the truck and headed over the hill. Falling tide and the bar was working. Think NOAA called for 5' @ 14 with easterlies. Hadn't been in the water in a month. (Including the pool.) Even though it was a dry-hair paddle out......I sure felt it. Three of us out. Some steep drops and fast rights rolling through. Got worked on a left that shut down. Thought I had the right line....but was slow to my feet and didn't make the section. Tried diving over the back as it exploded around me. Like getting hit with a wall. Came up gasping....with a huge shit eating grin on my face.

I love being humbled by a beautiful woman.

The heavy locals were working it hard. They definitely had the place down. Kept riding the big outside bombs coming through every 15 minutes or so. Guess they felt we had infringed on their peak.

Three big males. Harrassing us for an hour and a half. They would pop up within feet of us...bare a chest or two...snort... and out surf us on every wave. Gaz got the face off after a really zippy right....didn't think it was gonna let him back out in the line up. Then one of the big guys takes a liking to ding.....who's sitting about 5 feet from me....hits his leg and literally flips him off his board. Scared the shit out of me. Ding's screaming like a little girl...I'm scrambling to get my legs out of the water...and gaz is laughing at the both of us.

Crystal clear water. Sun shining. Bone chilling easterlies. Good company. Great day.

.....much needed and appreciated.