i hadn't surfed for two months
shitty conditions
kid/job/life
obligations
there are days
that i truly hate myself
for always being
responsible
so when i paddled out last monday
after a weekend of domesticity
baking (for the cute boy's birthday)
laundry
& pretty sure i scrubbed a toilet in between hoards of hand washed dishes
wasn't expecting much
wasn't expecting anything
just needed
just wanted
to get wet
below freezing air temp
48 degree water
crystal clear day
4 @ 13
gaz & i paddled out at finicky's
quickly joined by jeff & farmer blake
the lone surfinoregon coveting the left at crab pots
eventually joined us
as link (the other gazza) finally suited up & made his way out
caught a handfull
before the chill set in
blue & shaking
barely able to sit on my board
sun glare
big locals
making their presence known
it felt good to be home
shitty conditions
kid/job/life
obligations
there are days
that i truly hate myself
for always being
responsible
so when i paddled out last monday
after a weekend of domesticity
baking (for the cute boy's birthday)
laundry
& pretty sure i scrubbed a toilet in between hoards of hand washed dishes
wasn't expecting much
wasn't expecting anything
just needed
just wanted
to get wet
below freezing air temp
48 degree water
crystal clear day
4 @ 13
gaz & i paddled out at finicky's
quickly joined by jeff & farmer blake
the lone surfinoregon coveting the left at crab pots
eventually joined us
as link (the other gazza) finally suited up & made his way out
caught a handfull
before the chill set in
blue & shaking
barely able to sit on my board
sun glare
big locals
making their presence known
it felt good to be home
5 comments:
I stay warm by maintaining a similarly thick layer of blubber as do the aggro pinnipedal locals...
They maintain theirs through a steady diet of seafood...
I maintain mine with beer and cheese.
That was super german choco cake btw :-)
Sorry about leaving you in the freezing car for too long.....
You got a great wave with a critical take-off, that was solid!!!!
...before the glass axe lopped me off. ;-)
Awesome post. Sometimes you need to get away in order to fall in love all over again.
take it from Mr. Exile: whatever you can get yourself into...make the most of it! As fate can be a very finicky fellow, as I find myself, every second of every day, aching for the hard kiss of the frigid NORCAL liquid wonderland. :-)
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