six miles

Two mile switchback trail in.
One mile along the beach.
And back.

Nice day for a walk.

photos courtesy of Gaz

best buddies

The V-man's been to visist Max every day....to make sure he's doing okay.

And he is....doing okay. In fact Max is doing very well. A couple of dime sized holes drilled into his skull to drain the infection....and a couple of quarter sized titanium discs to plug'em up. Max thinks it's cool that he'll now be setting off airport alarms. Tee hee...

The docs don't know what caused the infection...but they expect him to make a full recovery and quite possibly leave the hospital as soon as Thursday.

Very good news.

surreal

Last night....the cuteboy & I were back up at Doernbecher Children's Hospital. Only this time....we weren't there for his son Bailey. (He'll be back there for his last surgery soon enough.)

My twin's youngest boy....Max (8)....was admitted to the pediatric intensive care unit with swelling in his right orbital & sinus cavities. As well as some swelling/fluid under the skull.

The same neurosurgeon & nurses that cared for Bailey.....are looking after Max.

He's in excellent hands.

moss landing

Porpoise....casually feeding through the line-up.

photo courtesy of Gaz

Backside longboard styling.

Zippy left.

Happy New Year

Two sessions.

Two breaks.

To start off the New Year.

T

Some time ago....nursemyra proposed t-shirt friday. (last friday of every month)

I finally got my act together....and remembered.

Rock on.



T-shirt courtesy of Gaz...via Sissy Fish.

guitar hero

Xbox 360 rules!
Thanks Santa!

Happy Holidays

Tooly licks...



...and licks...

...and licks...

Merry Christmas!

warmer days

Cold grey days...with howling winds & sideways rain.

Winter.

Time to tap the memory banks....for sunny summer days.


Derek...fin first.


Silas...backside.

More D styling...

Hanna & Cedar...splittin the peak.


photos courtesy of Gaz

Got Wood?

Collecting firewood....Oregon Surf Style.


1. Two busted chainsaws...



2. Strapping surfers...

3. Foreman and wood hauling vehicle...

shoulder

....she can't always be strong.

glass

I scored today...

Smooth...uncluttered...water.

No turbulence.

No wakes.

No train.

Me...

Myself...

...and I...

for an hour of stroking through glass.

pretzel

Not sure being able to tie myself in a knot is helping my surfing....

community

ras touched on this (in a comment) the other day.

We....surfers(?)....have one thing in common. Well....sometimes more than one thing. Most definitely one thing...binds us...brings us together...creates a community.

It's not a T-shirt.

It's not talk.

And...

It's certainly not.... temperament.

I read through a lot of surf blogs.

Some....continually pique my interest.

Others....not so much. (Which has more to do with my interest in a person's writing style...than their written topic.)

But......every day I'm back.

Wading through the muck & mire.

Why?

Passion.

The binding element......to this community.

threading the needle...

A lot of buoys this past week(end).

No worries.

Serpentine...

voyeur

I sat in the car on Sunday......and watched.

Made the drive....through snow, no less....but couldn't bring myself to suit up for the cold grey day.

What I would have missed......if I had been in the water...

The cuteboy drop into a head high right and lay down a bottom turn that had me convinced he was channeling Jay Adams skating. Beautiful.

The big grin on sheriff Andy's face as he told me about his week... scoring 8ft daily doubles down in the 'Cruz. and...the look of envy on his son's face....'cuz he wasn't invited.

The cheeky monkey of a 3-year-old relieving himself on the back tire of his dad's car.

Some days......it's better to observe.

seat

sessions

Winter storms are upon us.....or so it would seem.

Forty-mile-an-hour winds. Double-digit seas.

Taking stock....

We've had an unbelievable string of seasons here in Oregon.

Spring & summer......turned on.

New sandbars emerged. Even an oldie....that hasn't been good for years.....suddenly showed it's face. Warmer than average waters. South swells. Without skipping a beat... they surfed us well into fall.

I didn't get to travel south this year. But....to be honest....I didn't need to. I've had so many good sessions over the last 9 months.....they begin to blur.

What makes a session.....good?

I don't know.

It isn't always about the best waves.....

Some standouts from spring, summer & fall:

Timbuktu - big & bomby....a couple hours one evening of just the cuteboy & myself.

Drainpipes - a fun-filled afternoon with doc & the cuteboy.

T&A's - Sylas & the crew.....on more than a handful of occasions.

Timbuktu - with Mr. Lopez & the bearhunter. (you knew I had to include that one...)

Really....I hate to limit myself here....because there are....and will be.... many many more.

hooky

cold water
shining sun
light off-shores
handful of nose rides
afternoon nap

not bad for a monday....

wrapped