Some time ago....nursemyra proposed t-shirt friday. (last friday of every month)
I finally got my act together....and remembered.
Rock on.
T-shirt courtesy of Gaz...via Sissy Fish.
Thursday, December 27, 2007
T
Some time ago....nursemyra proposed t-shirt friday. (last friday of every month)
I finally got my act together....and remembered.
Rock on.
T-shirt courtesy of Gaz...via Sissy Fish.
Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Monday, December 24, 2007
Tuesday, December 18, 2007
warmer days
Cold grey days...with howling winds & sideways rain.
Winter.
Time to tap the memory banks....for sunny summer days.
Derek...fin first.
Silas...backside.
More D styling...
Hanna & Cedar...splittin the peak.
photos courtesy of Gaz
photos courtesy of Gaz
Monday, December 17, 2007
Got Wood?
Collecting firewood....Oregon Surf Style.
1. Two busted chainsaws...
2. Strapping surfers...
1. Two busted chainsaws...
2. Strapping surfers...
3. Foreman and wood hauling vehicle...
Thursday, December 13, 2007
Monday, December 10, 2007
glass
I scored today...
Smooth...uncluttered...water.
No turbulence.
No wakes.
No train.
Me...
Myself...
...and I...
for an hour of stroking through glass.
Friday, December 07, 2007
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
community
ras touched on this (in a comment) the other day.
We....surfers(?)....have one thing in common. Well....sometimes more than one thing. Most definitely one thing...binds us...brings us together...creates a community.
It's not a T-shirt.
It's not talk.
And...
It's certainly not.... temperament.
I read through a lot of surf blogs.
Some....continually pique my interest.
Others....not so much. (Which has more to do with my interest in a person's writing style...than their written topic.)
But......every day I'm back.
Wading through the muck & mire.
Why?
Passion.
The binding element......to this community.
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
voyeur
I sat in the car on Sunday......and watched.
Made the drive....through snow, no less....but couldn't bring myself to suit up for the cold grey day.
What I would have missed......if I had been in the water...
The cuteboy drop into a head high right and lay down a bottom turn that had me convinced he was channeling Jay Adams skating. Beautiful.
The big grin on sheriff Andy's face as he told me about his week... scoring 8ft daily doubles down in the 'Cruz. and...the look of envy on his son's face....'cuz he wasn't invited.
The cheeky monkey of a 3-year-old relieving himself on the back tire of his dad's car.
Some days......it's better to observe.
Made the drive....through snow, no less....but couldn't bring myself to suit up for the cold grey day.
What I would have missed......if I had been in the water...
The cuteboy drop into a head high right and lay down a bottom turn that had me convinced he was channeling Jay Adams skating. Beautiful.
The big grin on sheriff Andy's face as he told me about his week... scoring 8ft daily doubles down in the 'Cruz. and...the look of envy on his son's face....'cuz he wasn't invited.
The cheeky monkey of a 3-year-old relieving himself on the back tire of his dad's car.
Some days......it's better to observe.
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
sessions
Winter storms are upon us.....or so it would seem.
Forty-mile-an-hour winds. Double-digit seas.
Taking stock....
We've had an unbelievable string of seasons here in Oregon.
Spring & summer......turned on.
New sandbars emerged. Even an oldie....that hasn't been good for years.....suddenly showed it's face. Warmer than average waters. South swells. Without skipping a beat... they surfed us well into fall.
I didn't get to travel south this year. But....to be honest....I didn't need to. I've had so many good sessions over the last 9 months.....they begin to blur.
What makes a session.....good?
I don't know.
It isn't always about the best waves.....
Some standouts from spring, summer & fall:
Timbuktu - big & bomby....a couple hours one evening of just the cuteboy & myself.
Drainpipes - a fun-filled afternoon with doc & the cuteboy.
T&A's - Sylas & the crew.....on more than a handful of occasions.
Timbuktu - with Mr. Lopez & the bearhunter. (you knew I had to include that one...)
Really....I hate to limit myself here....because there are....and will be.... many many more.
Forty-mile-an-hour winds. Double-digit seas.
Taking stock....
We've had an unbelievable string of seasons here in Oregon.
Spring & summer......turned on.
New sandbars emerged. Even an oldie....that hasn't been good for years.....suddenly showed it's face. Warmer than average waters. South swells. Without skipping a beat... they surfed us well into fall.
I didn't get to travel south this year. But....to be honest....I didn't need to. I've had so many good sessions over the last 9 months.....they begin to blur.
What makes a session.....good?
I don't know.
It isn't always about the best waves.....
Some standouts from spring, summer & fall:
Timbuktu - big & bomby....a couple hours one evening of just the cuteboy & myself.
Drainpipes - a fun-filled afternoon with doc & the cuteboy.
T&A's - Sylas & the crew.....on more than a handful of occasions.
Timbuktu - with Mr. Lopez & the bearhunter. (you knew I had to include that one...)
Really....I hate to limit myself here....because there are....and will be.... many many more.
Monday, November 05, 2007
hooky
cold water
shining sun
light off-shores
handful of nose rides
afternoon nap
not bad for a monday....
shining sun
light off-shores
handful of nose rides
afternoon nap
not bad for a monday....
Thursday, November 01, 2007
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
trick-or-treat
I've had a few birthdays in which I received tricks instead of treats....
At 32....my mom was diagnosed with non-hodgkin's lymphoma. Trick.
At 34...my dad suffered a quintuple bypass & my mom had her second go-round with cancer. Double Trick.
This year....at 39....the B-Man is going home! Most excellent treat!
Happy Halloween!
...from a couple of
spooky birthday girls.
Trick or Twin!
Tuesday, October 23, 2007
merry-go-round
Here we go again....
Locals only! Go home kook! Val kook stay away!
Have you checked out the brouhaha that went down at sissyfish today? christ....
I don't know......maybe it's a testosterone thing? An.....I've-got-the-biggest-balls-and-
I'm-going-to-piss-on-every-leg-within-a-fifty-mile-radius....thing? I wonder how ovaries would fit into that scenario? Anyway....
Threats of violence..... over a fucking t-shirt. No. Not even an actual T. A query. A fucking QUESTION. Seriously.
Soooo......
I'm feeling inspired. Yep. Inspired.
I am going to make bikinis imprinted with photos of Oregon surf breaks.
You heard me.....Oregon surf breaks. The more "secret" the better. Controversy, baby. It's not like it hasn't been done. I mean....if Aaron Chang can post photos of surf breaks from around the world on tiny triangles......then why can't I? Especially at a hondo a pop. Ka-ching!!!
My first endeavor? A very secret Southern Oregon surf spot. That's right.....Ol' Mother X........ is going to be plastered right up the ass of my first bikini.
How secret is this spot? ...you ask?
It's so secret..........bikini inspectors will need a flashlight and a speculum.....just to find the surf.
Happy hunting....
Locals only! Go home kook! Val kook stay away!
Have you checked out the brouhaha that went down at sissyfish today? christ....
I don't know......maybe it's a testosterone thing? An.....I've-got-the-biggest-balls-and-
I'm-going-to-piss-on-every-leg-within-a-fifty-mile-radius....thing? I wonder how ovaries would fit into that scenario? Anyway....
Threats of violence..... over a fucking t-shirt. No. Not even an actual T. A query. A fucking QUESTION. Seriously.
Soooo......
I'm feeling inspired. Yep. Inspired.
I am going to make bikinis imprinted with photos of Oregon surf breaks.
You heard me.....Oregon surf breaks. The more "secret" the better. Controversy, baby. It's not like it hasn't been done. I mean....if Aaron Chang can post photos of surf breaks from around the world on tiny triangles......then why can't I? Especially at a hondo a pop. Ka-ching!!!
My first endeavor? A very secret Southern Oregon surf spot. That's right.....Ol' Mother X........ is going to be plastered right up the ass of my first bikini.
How secret is this spot? ...you ask?
It's so secret..........bikini inspectors will need a flashlight and a speculum.....just to find the surf.
Happy hunting....
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
wonder drug
I've been out of the pool for two months now. You know how it is.....Life gets in the way.
Well....yesterday I decided it was time to return to some semblance of normalcy. These gills were drying up and in desperate need of that wonderful concoction two parts hydrogen one part oxygen, with a splash of bromide to taste.
Time to get wet.
A warm welcome back from Coach Dennis & my lane mates and a fairly simple set.....helped ease my re-entry.
50 meter pool
2 x [200s/100k/200p]
3 x [150 @ 2:45 -10 kicks off the wall; 4 x 50 @ 1:15 - 25 choice fast/25 ez; 150 @ 3:00 progressive by 50]
300 pull @ moderate
300 kick @ ez
Total = 3100 meters
I'm always aware of where I sit in the water......hand placement......shoulder roll....hip level.... but that didn't stop me from saying to myself..... "thank god for muscle memory". I didn't drown. I didn't blow a gasket. And more importantly....
I felt better.
Well....yesterday I decided it was time to return to some semblance of normalcy. These gills were drying up and in desperate need of that wonderful concoction two parts hydrogen one part oxygen, with a splash of bromide to taste.
Time to get wet.
A warm welcome back from Coach Dennis & my lane mates and a fairly simple set.....helped ease my re-entry.
50 meter pool
2 x [200s/100k/200p]
3 x [150 @ 2:45 -10 kicks off the wall; 4 x 50 @ 1:15 - 25 choice fast/25 ez; 150 @ 3:00 progressive by 50]
300 pull @ moderate
300 kick @ ez
Total = 3100 meters
I'm always aware of where I sit in the water......hand placement......shoulder roll....hip level.... but that didn't stop me from saying to myself..... "thank god for muscle memory". I didn't drown. I didn't blow a gasket. And more importantly....
I felt better.
Monday, October 15, 2007
gracious
Two weeks out of the water, injuries, hectic work weeks.....I was in desperate need of surf, when we headed to the beach Saturday. I figured I'd be satisfied with whatever the swell brought....even a beating sounded good.
Imagine our surprise when we pulled up to see head high peaks.....light off-shores....and the sun shining. A beautiful fall weekend in Oregon.
The cuteboy ditched me in the parking lot. Apparently....I wasn't (un)dressing fast enough. I stood perusing the various peaks....opting for a paddle out at Chambers. There were some long lefts and freight train rights coming through....could be fun. But it was crowded and a nasty rip was tearing through some of the peaks. So... I headed south to Timbuktu where I found myself splitting an empty peak with the Bearhunter and Mr. Lopez.
A couple hours.....trading waves.....smiling......enjoying the good surf.
Back for more Sunday morning....I found myself once again splitting a south peak with Mr. Lopez and the Bearhunter. Fast & furious rights. Steep long lefts. I had a front row seat to Gerry's beautiful carving on big bombers. And when he started cross-stepping to the nose....I told him to stop showing off.
Without getting too starry-eyed....I have to say.....Mr. Lopez is as gracious as he is graceful. The Bearhunter and I were scratching to get over an outside set....when Gerry dropped into the right. Bearhunter made it over. I......almost made it over.
Sssoooooooorrrrryyyyyyyyyy Nnaaaaaaaannnnccccyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!
....I heard Gerry yell as he rode over my tail..... sucking me backwards over the falls. No worries, Gerr.....I like a little rough play from cute older boys. Tee hee....
Imagine our surprise when we pulled up to see head high peaks.....light off-shores....and the sun shining. A beautiful fall weekend in Oregon.
The cuteboy ditched me in the parking lot. Apparently....I wasn't (un)dressing fast enough. I stood perusing the various peaks....opting for a paddle out at Chambers. There were some long lefts and freight train rights coming through....could be fun. But it was crowded and a nasty rip was tearing through some of the peaks. So... I headed south to Timbuktu where I found myself splitting an empty peak with the Bearhunter and Mr. Lopez.
A couple hours.....trading waves.....smiling......enjoying the good surf.
Back for more Sunday morning....I found myself once again splitting a south peak with Mr. Lopez and the Bearhunter. Fast & furious rights. Steep long lefts. I had a front row seat to Gerry's beautiful carving on big bombers. And when he started cross-stepping to the nose....I told him to stop showing off.
Without getting too starry-eyed....I have to say.....Mr. Lopez is as gracious as he is graceful. The Bearhunter and I were scratching to get over an outside set....when Gerry dropped into the right. Bearhunter made it over. I......almost made it over.
Sssoooooooorrrrryyyyyyyyyy Nnaaaaaaaannnnccccyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!
....I heard Gerry yell as he rode over my tail..... sucking me backwards over the falls. No worries, Gerr.....I like a little rough play from cute older boys. Tee hee....
Friday, October 12, 2007
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